I don’t even know what to write about India- so much was crammed into five days. India was definitely the biggest culture shock I have experienced on the trip so far. There are 1.1 billion people in India, and I honestly feel I saw at LEAST half of them. The streets everywhere were constantly bustling and crowded.

We docked in Chennai which is on the southeastern tip of India and is a very non-touristy, industrial city. I think SAS was trying to save on dock money because usually when we dock the view is really pretty once we get in. This time, I looked over the edge and saw rows and rows of cars. It looked like the most monstrous car dealership I’ve ever seen. Later we realized they were waiting to be loaded onto a cargo ship, but it wasn’t exactly a sweet first view of India. Customs getting on and off the ship were a lot different than what I had experienced in the other countries. We all had to have two different forms everywhere we went and had to sign in and out of the gate. It was a little bit of a hassle but not a problem. Since I wanted to see a lot of India while I was there and not worry about any of the details, I signed up for a SAS trip to travel to Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur which are all in the northern part of India. My group had about seventy people total but thankfully we split up into buses so I was really only with about twenty people. I didn’t know anyone going on my bus, and it ended up being really nice because I feel like I met a lot of different SAS people. We left the first afternoon to catch a flight from Chennai to Delhi. It was only a two and a half hour flight, but the drive to the Chennai airport was an hour or so in itself. It was evening by the time we got to Delhi, so we headed to our hotel (Ashok). It was really nice. I had a delicious Indian buffet, ate a TON of naan, and listened to amazing music. After dinner, some girls and I hung out and watched BBC world news. It was the first time I’ve watched television since home, so it was awesome to watch English news and see what was going on in the world.

The next morning we got up super early to make our train to Agra. After two hours or so, we arrived and headed to yet another hotel for breakfast. Finally, I got in my bus (bus 2!) and set out for the Taj Mahal. When we arrived at the gate, it was nothing like I had expected. Beggars and vendors surrounded the entrance asking you to buy things or give them rupees or food. Graffiti and posters covered the gate as you walked into the entrance. Once we got inside and past all of the vendors following us, the buildings were beautiful. I took a million pictures in India As we walked through an arch, I got a glimpse of the Taj. I can’t even believe I was there. It was so magnificent- it was unreal. The Taj Mahal was probably the site I was most excited to see on this trip, and it was completely worthwhile. The story of the Taj goes that one emperor (I am sorry but there is no way I can remember his name so google it if you really care) who was very much in love with his wife. When she died, she made him promise to never marry again and to build a monument of his love for her that everyone would admire. After twenty-two years of labor, the Taj Mahal was finally completed. It’s marble, and there are intricate jewel designs laid inside. In all of my pictures, it looks like a backdrop. It looks as if I just super imposed myself onto this picture of the Taj Mahal. It feels unreal to have been there. After leaving the Taj (boo), my guide, D, took us to a shop where they do marble and jewel work like that used on the Taj Mahal. It was interesting to see how much work is put into even the smallest piece. No wonder it took twenty-two years to build. Once we left there, we headed to Agra Fort. It was at this fort that the emperor whose name I still can’t remember was imprisoned by his own son. (The power hungry son wanted the throne for himself so he imprisoned his father.) We saw the room/balcony where he was held. From there, you have the most amazing view of the Taj Mahal. It must have been heartbreaking yet comforting at the same time to see the magnificent building that he himself had built to symbolize the love he had for his wife. After a delicious lunch, we headed out for Jaipur (about a six hour bus ride from Agra). Part way through our trip, we stopped at the Ghost City. This city was suddenly abandoned centuries ago, and no one is really sure why. Most guesses are that the water and the heat were just so bad and unbearable- they just got up and left. It was beautiful though, and some of the woodwork was unbelievable. and most of them are just buildings and architecture because the designs, carvings, and jewel work were so intricate and stunning.

The next morning, also known as my twentieth birthday!, we started our day in Jaipur with French toast (not as good as your French toast, dad, no worries). Now, after the first two days I was starting to wonder if I should have done a different trip or gone independently or something, but Jaipur ended up being great. We started out early and headed to the Amber Fort. On our way there, we drove through the city which we had only seen in the dark driving through the night before. In the 1800s, the Prince of Wales traveled to Jaipur, and the maha raja wanted to celebrate his arrival so he painted the entire city pink. It’s really more of a terracotta color, but it’s been called the Pink City ever since. Even though it was still dirty and poor, Jaipur felt a lot different from the other cities I visited. I guess it just felt a little more like going back in time. I don’t know- it’s hard to explain.

So anyway, we drive out of the city a tiny bit and suddenly see this huge fort. Supposedly it is the most difficult fort to get to physically. I don’t know what it’s compared to, but it looked hard to get to so I believe it! Right next to it was the Amber Fort which was the one we were going to see. It was so big, I really wasn’t expecting it. Right away, I knew that Jaipur had been a good choice. We had gotten there before eight so we got in line for our elephant ride up the hill to the fort. The elephants’ trunks were brightly painted and had a two person cushion seat on its back. My elephant’s name was Bubbly! Riding up the hill on Bubbly was a lot of fun, very bumpy, and a little scary because I was pretty sure I was going to fall off and plummet to my death in India. Thankfully I did not! I just had an amazing view of the city, the fort, and had a lot of fun. Once we got inside the fort, there were some people playing music up in one of the buildings. If you know me well, you know I have a thing for Indian music, so I pretty much loved it. Anyway, I had a great time exploring the fort. In this fort, the king had twelve different wives and lots and lots of concubines. Pretty interesting. On our way down from the fort, there was a snake charmer on the side of the path! It was awesome!

After the fort, we went shopping. By shopping I mean expensive SAS shopping because our guides get commissions. But it was cool to see how things were made. First we went to this textile shop. They showed us how the use printing blocks and looms. Then they gave us a demonstration of all the carpets. The patterns were so detailed and beautiful. (Think the magic carpet from Aladdin.) Then we went to a jewelry store where we didn’t even look around much because most of us aren’t exactly in the market for diamond rings right now. After lunch, D took us to the palace of the maha raja. Interesting side note, up until India gained its independence in 1947/8 whatever it is, there were hundreds and hundreds of kings throughout India, each with his own land, currency, and army. So we went to the king of Jaipur’s palace basically. A different bus from my group actually met him in the market- pretty cool! We looked around there for a bit and did some shopping. All day we had been begging D to take us to a market because we all wanted really cheap souvenirs and stuff like that. I bought an awesome skirt for 150 rupees which is approximately four dollars! I was pumped, but the market quickly became very overwhelming as vendors were all around you, asking to show you this or that or telling you you’re beautiful or whatnot. Side note: there is a crew member on the ship who is from India, and he told me that if anyone gave me trouble I should just open my eyes as big as I can. He said that they are so huge and light that it would freak any Indian out. It didn’t work, but I still thought it was funny.

Moving on, three guys, one girl, and I decided we were done with our shopping excursion. There were cricket fields right next to where our bus was parked, and there were tons of kids playing and running around. The boys decided that they wanted to go play so they went over and were talking to the kids. My girl friend and I decided hey we want to go over to! We walked over and they all were like take our picture take our picture! We did, and we introduced ourselves, and everything seemed fine. We walked around the fence, and as soon as we stepped out onto the field, at least twenty boys ages 8-16 surrounded the two of us girls. They started throwing the cricket ball at us, kissing our arms, grabbing us in all sorts of inappropriate places, and were shouting things in a different language which everyone would start to laugh at. It all happened so fast. The guys we were with didn’t even know what to do and pretty much just grabbed us and walked us back to where we could get back to the bus. As we sat in the hot bus, we watched the guys be treated fine by all the little boys. It was the first time I have ever really experienced something like that, where because I’m a woman I can’t participate or do something that I want to do. It was the first time on this trip that I had ever felt so uncomfortable, which might sound funny because they were such young boys but it was very unsettling.
After that interesting experience, we went out to dinner and got back to the hotel around nine or ten, I’m not really sure. We had to leave at 2 a.m. for our six hour bus ride back to Delhi. It was decided that we would just stay up, so I finished up my twentieth birthday at the bar/restaurant on the roof of our hotel. I requested Indian music (duh) but they would only play American classics like Will Smith and some Hips Don’t Lie. Then Happy Birthday played, and it made me happy. As the night went on our group kept getting bigger and bigger. We ended up meeting some old Indian men who were also up there and two Bollywood dancers. We were all dancing, and I had a ton of fun. It was a great way to finish up my birthday. (And yes, I did use the “It’s still my birthday in America!” line) I got lucky because I was nervous about going on the trip with no one I knew, but everyone was super chill and fun. It was by far the best birthday I’ve ever had.

The next day, (yes that was all in one day) we basically traveled all day long back to Chennai. When we got back, practically the whole Jaipur group went to the snack bar and ordered hamburgers and pizzas. It was delicious. I showered and napped... perfect post-traveling afternoon. That evening I met up with a couple of my friends and went out to eat and ended up getting eaten alive by bugs. Surprise surprise.

For my last day in India I slept in (lame, I know) then went to go shopping. We took an auto rickshaw, and my driver’s name was Babu. The auto rickshaw was a lot of fun and very scary at the same time. Driving in India is madness. There aren’t really lanes, and traffic lights aren’t exactly followed. So it’s a little scary. When we got to the shopping center, we stopped and our drivers told us that we couldn’t go in because there was just a murder inside. Uhhhhhhhh… Supposedly there was a huge gang fight with knives between the Kashmirs and the Tamil, and someone was killed. We decided to bypass that shopping center, and ended up driving around in the rickshaw all day long and not getting much shopping done. I thought it was fun anyway though. I definitely saw a lot of Chennai!

Overall, I really liked India, but a lot of people didn’t. I wouldn’t say that I would never come back. I mean I would never go for a vacation or anything, but I definitely would go back and do some service work or something like that. However, some people just couldn’t get over how dirty it was. It was extremely dirty, and the smell is probably the most memorable thing about India. Well maybe not but it had some intensely bad smells. Such as human feces, cow dung, and hard boiled eggs that have been sitting out in the sun for two weeks. Just to name a few. I can’t imagine being there in the heat of summer when the smells must be intensified. Yum!
One aspect of India I cannot handle is the everyday conversational usage of phrases such as explosive diarrhea, the T. D., addicted to Imodium, or popping the pepto. Boozy (I don’t want to say your real name right now because I am trying to protect your identity), I think of you whenever a conversation such as this comes up. I will no longer have any problem with your bodily function talks because I have heard more graphic details than you can even imagine. Thankfully, I have not gotten sick, but India is doing a number on some people. Ewwwwwww. Boozy, I miss you hahaha.
On our way to India, we talked a lot about the role of women in India. We discussed female infanticide and different religious customs that restrict women throughout the country. My guide, D, has two daughters ages five and two. Someone in my group asked him if he wants a son. He said he is glad that he has daughters because one day, when they each get married, they will go off to their husbands’ families and cause trouble for their mothers in law. He said he’s glad that no one will be entering his family and causing trouble for his wife. It was a really funny explanation, but I wonder how much of that is how he truly feels and how much is more of a defense mechanism story. I also noticed that in most of the advertisements the women were in western looking dress, but I did not see one woman not in traditional clothing while I was in India.
Even though India wasn’t exactly the cleanest or best smelling place I’ve ever been, I’m so glad that I got to experience everything that I did. Yesterday marked the halfway point on my trip. I can’t even think about that right now because I already know that I’m going to be a mess and a half when it’s over. The first half of this trip has been amazing, and I have been to five distinct and beautiful countries. I’m so excited to see what the rest of the ports have in store for me. I’m excited for this second half because we are in port a lot more often (aka a lot less time spent on the ship and in class). Also, I feel like these next few countries are a lot less about partying than really going and taking in all that country has to offer. I have met so many cool people, and I really value even the smallest of the friendships I have made thus far. I’m still meeting people every trip I take, and it’s a lot of fun to walk around the ship and recognize so many people from all over the place. I feel like I’m learning a lot about myself and about how I relate to others. After visiting India, I realize how much I take for granted what people in other places can’t even imagine. As they told us in global studies, this trip is costing more than most people in India will ever see in their lives. We’re the lucky ones. It was really an eye opening experience.
I’ll wrap up this monstrously long entry with a quote that someone shared at our post port meeting:
India is beyond statement, for anything you say, the opposite is also true. It's rich and poor, spiritual and material, cruel and kind, angry but peaceful, ugly and beautiful, and smart but stupid. It's all the extremes. India defies understanding, and for once, for me, that's okay.
–Sarah MacDonald
Love and miss you all!